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One was delighted to discover that the traditional Indian seasoning podi – a coarse mix of intensely spicy, crudely milled spices, which you mix with a little oil and use as a sauce for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” spice mix. It's aptly named if you were using my grandmother’s home-dried chillies, but it would be generous to say that I’m far less daring with chilli, so here I suggest crushed chilies instead. It’s an extraordinarily good marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Gunpowder Paneer and Potato Skewers with Lime-Mint Dressing

You will need six to eight barbecue sticks (if wooden, immerse them in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 min
Cook 30 minutes
Serves a couple

400g firm potatoes, sliced into four-centimeter chunks
Two hundred twenty-five grams paneer, cut into 0.8-inch cubes
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
½ tsp fennel seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
One teaspoon chilli flakes
One and a half teaspoon flaky sea salt, and additional for garnish
2 cloves of garlic, prepared and minced
1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and grated
about 3 tablespoons flavorless oil
One red onion, prepared and divided into eight wedges, then halved crossways

For the dressing
Lime zest and juice, freshly prepared
Ten grams fresh mint leaves, diced small
Half a tsp flaky sea salt
100g natural yoghurt

Cook the potatoes for about 10 minutes, then drain them and leave to steam dry for a minute. At the same time, put the paneer cubes in a container with heated water for a short while, then drain and pat dry.

Pour the coriander, fennel and cumin seeds into a mortar or spice grinder, add the peppercorns, chilli flakes and sea salt, then crush or grind to a rough rubble.

Tip into a sizable container with the minced ginger and garlic, add the oil, then carefully mix in the cubed paneer, cooked potatoes and red onions to coat. Arrange the vegetables and cheese on to six to eight metal or soaked wooden skewers, then transfer to a baking sheet and set aside until needed – if you like, you can at this stage store in the fridge the skewers.

Beat all the dressing components in a container. Turn on the grill to its top temperature, then cook the skewers for five to seven minutes on each side, until the paneer is browned and the potatoes are starting to char. (This may take a different amount of time depending on the intensity of your oven, so keep an eye on them, especially when cooking the first side.)

Offer the grilled sticks immediately, scattered with a little more flaky salt and the sauce on the side for serving.